By Chris Clayton
Contributing Editor

It was a couple of eye-opening images that helped turn Michael Pollan into America's apostle of the organic, "eat local," foodie movement.

It started in 1998 when Monsanto invited Pollan to witness production of a biotech potato (the potato is no longer produced). He recalls being troubled by the fungicides used and noted that farmers were growing organic potatoes in their gardens. Not long after, Pollan found himself driving past a giant feedlot in central California. He had never seen such cattle production.

"There you have hamburgers and French fries and a recognition that I'm ...